Daisy Kady stood outside of her business, Grandma's Frybread, where she prepares Navajo fry bread in her camper-turned-kitchen.
Daisy Kady stood outside of her business, Grandma's Frybread, where she prepares Navajo fry bread in her camper-turned-kitchen. (Erin Clark/Globe Staff)

Los Angeles team

Nov. 2, 2022

At Four Corners USA, Daisy Kady and her fry bread are national treasures

FOUR CORNERS MONUMENT, N.M. side — “I’m not fast anymore,” warned Daisy Kady through the window of the truck where she sells fry bread. Kady thinks she recently turned 80, although she was born at home and her parents didn’t have a calendar, so she can’t be sure.

She learned to make Navajo fry bread from her mother in the 1940s, and hasn’t changed much: She makes a ball of dough, fries it in hot oil until it puffs up, and then coats it with cinnamon sugar or honey. Parked outside of Four Corners Monument, the place where Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado meet, she sells pieces for $7 each.

To make fry bread, Kady makes a ball of dough, fries it in hot oil until it puffs up, and then coats it with cinnamon sugar or honey.
To make fry bread, Kady makes a ball of dough, fries it in hot oil until it puffs up, and then coats it with cinnamon sugar or honey. (Erin Clark/Globe Staff)

Celebrities occasionally come by — Al Roker did a bit where he reported the weather from each of the four states — but her biggest regret is never meeting Elvis. “We didn’t travel in those days. We’d see him in movies,” she said. “My classmates would try to climb the screen.”

Kady’s grandchildren — she has 12 — named the truck Grandma’s Frybread. All of them know how to make it, she said, “even the boys.”

Kady’s parents didn’t speak English at home, but she learned it when she was sent to a boarding school, where teachers punished students caught speaking Navajo. So now, she pushes her grandchildren to learn Navajo. “I told them to know two languages, their own and English.”

She doesn’t know how long she’ll keep doing this — the truck’s stairs are hard on her knees, “I just do this because the doctor said if I sit around I’ll end up in a wheelchair.” But she does know the secret to fry bread: entering into the right frame of mind. “You just gotta be calm and put love into it. If you’re mad and doing it wrong, it won’t come out right.”

Kady’s grandchildren — she has 12 — named the truck Grandma’s Frybread.
Kady’s grandchildren — she has 12 — named the truck Grandma’s Frybread. (Erin Clark/Globe Staff)

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Credits
  • Reporters: Julian Benbow, Diti Kohli, Hanna Krueger, Emma Platoff, Annalisa Quinn, Jenna Russell, Mark Shanahan, Lissandra Villa Huerta
  • Photographers: Erin Clark, Pat Greenhouse, Jessica Rinaldi, and Craig F. Walker
  • Editor: Francis Storrs
  • Managing editor: Stacey Myers
  • Photo editors: William Greene and Leanne Burden Seidel
  • Video editor: Anush Elbakyan
  • Digital editor: Christina Prignano
  • Design: Ryan Huddle
  • Development: John Hancock
  • Copy editors: Carrie Simonelli, Michael Bailey, Marie Piard, and Ashlee Korlach
  • Homepage strategy: Leah Becerra
  • Audience engagement: Lauren Booker, Heather Ciras, Sadie Layher, Maddie Mortell, and Devin Smith
  • Newsletter: LaDonna LaGuerre
  • Quality assurance: Nalini Dokula
  • Additional research: Chelsea Henderson and Jeremiah Manion