Lacey McKay of Waterboro, Maine, balanced on a peak in Badlands National Park on Sept. 10, after driving 530 miles.
Lacey McKay of Waterboro, Maine, balanced on a peak in Badlands National Park on Sept. 10, after driving 530 miles. (Jessica Rinaldi/Globe Staff)

Seattle team

Oct. 31, 2022

On Saturday night in the Badlands the silence is deafening

BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK, S.D. — After the sun sank below the undulating ridges of this otherworldly landscape, Lacey McKay, 21, and Cailyn Forrester, 19, stood looking west, watching the darkness deepen.

It was Saturday night, but for the two road-tripping young women from Waterboro, Maine, the days had begun to blur together. They’d awakened in Wisconsin that morning, then barreled 530 miles west on Interstate 90 in their silver Toyota 4Runner, an exhausting nine-hour push that landed them in the Dakota Badlands by nightfall.

The view of the rock formations was stunning, but the quiet in the park amazed them more: a deep, unbroken, audible silence. The kind that makes you wonder if you’ve lost your hearing.

A visitor hiked down into Badlands National Park to take in the sunset.
A visitor hiked down into Badlands National Park to take in the sunset. (Jessica Rinaldi/Globe Staff)

“The silence is so loud,” McKay said.

At a campsite nearby, they planned to build a fire, warm tomato soup, and cook grilled cheese sandwiches, then drift off to sleep beneath the enormous harvest moon. The next day they would drive an hour west to see Mount Rushmore before turning south toward Colorado.

Their month-long trip had nearly been over before it began. Two days before they planned to leave, the brakes on McKay’s car failed. Rather than postpone, she bought a 4Runner, built a wooden platform in the back for them to sleep on, and left Maine right on schedule at 4 a.m. on a Thursday morning.

They drove more than 1,700 miles those first three days, without a plan for where to go, or when, leaning into the escape from regular routine.

“We’re winging it from here,” said Forrester.

Maine residents Cailyn Forrester and Lacey McKay took in the sunset at Badlands National Park.
Maine residents Cailyn Forrester and Lacey McKay took in the sunset at Badlands National Park. (Jessica Rinaldi/Globe Staff)

Join the discussion: Comment on this story.

Up next

Credits
  • Reporters: Julian Benbow, Diti Kohli, Hanna Krueger, Emma Platoff, Annalisa Quinn, Jenna Russell, Mark Shanahan, Lissandra Villa Huerta
  • Photographers: Erin Clark, Pat Greenhouse, Jessica Rinaldi, and Craig F. Walker
  • Editor: Francis Storrs
  • Managing editor: Stacey Myers
  • Photo editors: William Greene and Leanne Burden Seidel
  • Video editor: Anush Elbakyan
  • Digital editor: Christina Prignano
  • Design: Ryan Huddle
  • Development: John Hancock
  • Copy editors: Carrie Simonelli, Michael Bailey, Marie Piard, and Ashlee Korlach
  • Homepage strategy: Leah Becerra
  • Audience engagement: Lauren Booker, Heather Ciras, Sadie Layher, Maddie Mortell, and Devin Smith
  • Newsletter: LaDonna LaGuerre
  • Quality assurance: Nalini Dokula
  • Additional research: Chelsea Henderson and Jeremiah Manion