Travel

Journey to Myanmar

Part 2

Central Myanmar

Bagan, Myanmar

Decades of military rule kept Myanmar off most travelers’ lists until a few years ago, when the regime began to loosen its grip. But many problems remain. In the past few weeks, thousands of Rohingya — a Muslim minority — have fled persecution in western Myanmar. The situation has escalated into an international emergency and underscores Myanmar’s poor record in dealing with ethnic minorities. Tourists are kept away from areas of conflict, so most visitors to Myanmar will not see the full picture. But after years of isolation, the country is now more accessible than ever, and travelers can experience for themselves what life looks and sounds like in this complex nation.

Pilgrims climb hundreds of covered steps to the table-top Taung Kalat temple at picturesque Mount Popa.

The Temples of Bagan

Biking the plains of Bagan and walking the nearby villages

The ruins of Bagan are remnants of the Kingdom of Pagan, which peaked between the 11th and 13th centuries and united what would become modern Myanmar. Thousands of Buddhist shrines and temples stud the heat-shimmering plains. A few of the monuments are as big and grand as cathedrals, while many are smaller and shoddier than sheds. Inside each, a Buddha sits in shadow.

  • Visitors must stake out their spots early for prime sunset viewing.

Visitors must stake out their spots early for prime sunset viewing.

  • Biking the temples of Bagan.
  • Temples of Bagan.

From atop a tall temple, one can see stupas and pagodas in all directions.

  • Buddha statue in a temple of Bagan.
  • Monks and agricultural workers walk along the highway from Bagan to Mount Popa.

Monks and agricultural workers walk along the highway from Bagan to Mount Popa.

  • Temples of Bagan.
  • A mural of General Aung San, considered by many to be the father of modern Myanmar.
  • Man in an alley of Nyaung U.
  • Temples of Bagan.
  • Temples of Bagan.
  • The sun sets over the Irrawaddy River in Old Bagan.

The sun sets over the Irrawaddy River in Old Bagan.

By Scott LaPierre, Elaina Natario, Russell Goldenberg, Gabriel Florit